THE BIRDSVILLE TRACK
The 514km. Birdsville Track is one of Australia's best known Outback adventures.
The unsealed track goes from Marree in South Australia's mid-north, to Birdsville
in the south-western corner of Queensland through some of Australia's driest
country.
Starkly beautiful and challenging for car and driver, the track passes
between the Simpson and Sturt's Stony Deserts, past Lake Eyre, and west of the
Innamincka Regional Reserve.
Most of the track is through the Strzelecki Desert and those wishing to
do the trip must take adequate provisions of water, food, petrol and basic spare
parts like spare fan-belts, radiator hoses, spark plugs and other parts which
might seem unnecessary at the time, but can be invaluable if you are stuck hundreds
of kilometres from the nearest service station. An additional spare tyre is
also recommended.
The track used to be only accessible to 4 wheel drive vehicles, but recently
it has been maintained to a degree where most vehicles can travel along it.
These days the road is frequently graded to provide reasonable surfaces for
travellers and the many beef cattle transport trucks which use it. As with most
outback regions of Australia, the road can be cut suddenly by heavy rains which
fall from time to time and cause usually dry rivers to flash flood. This can
sometimes result in being stranded between rivers for up to a week so adequate
supplies of food and water should be taken as a precaution Corrugations form
on all outback road surfaces and will sometimes make the trip uncomfortable,
not to mention, unsafe. You will discover a speed which is safe and comfortable
on most roads.
If you are planning to do this adventurous journey you can obtain up to the
minute information on conditions from the
Northern Area Road Condition Hotline on 1300 361 033
OUTBACK TRAVEL TIPS
Things to see along the road include:
MARREE: (647Km. North of Adelaide)
Once known as Hergott Springs it was the staging post for camel trains which
transported goods from the railhead to the outback and Alice Springs. For 20
years until 1980 it was a major break-of-guage station on the "Ghan"
rail journey to Alice Springs but the new rail now runs some 200 kilometres
west.
It is now a small service centre for surrounding stations and travellers
along the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks. there is an hotel, caravan park,
general stores, post office, take-away food outlets, hospital and police station.
A weekly bus service operates to Marree.
A picnic race meeting and Gymkhana is held each June.
LAKE HARRY:
Around 30km. north of Marree the government struck
its first bore for the stock route. The deserted homestead was occupied until
1951 and was a busy camel trading post. In the 1860's some 200 date palms
were planted experimentally at Lake Harry. Baron von Mueller, a noted early
botanist, theorised that date palms would provide a food and shade source around
outback waterholes and palms were planted at many remote waterholes. Lake Harry
can be seen to the east of the road.
THE DOG FENCE:
A little further north you will pass the dog
fence which stretches from the New South Wales border to the Great Australian
Bight near Streaky Bay, a distance of over 9,600 kilometres. The fence was built
in an attempt to keep marauding dingos from the sheep flocks grazing to its
south.
CLAYTON RIVER: Crossed at the turn-off to Clayton Station
DULKANINNA: Established in the late 1800's, Dulkaninna Station
is near the Dulkaninna Creek, fed by an artesian bore.
CANNUWAUKANINNA BORE: This bore exudes water so hot it travels nearly
a kilometre before it is cool enough for stock to drink. West of the bore, the
Lake Palankarinna Fossil Reserve on the edge of the Tirari Desert provides valuable
scientific information about early life in Australia.
ETADUNNA HOMESTEAD: A memorial beside the track remembers the efforts
of Lutheran missionaries who ran the aboriginal settlemant at Killalpaninna,
the ruins of which are approximately 20km. north of the station. It was built
in 1866 and provided for some 200 aboriginals until its close after the severe
drought of 1915.
COOPER CROSSING: 203 Km. north of Marree is the Cooper Creek Crossing
and the turn off to the 'flood' road and ferry. When this massive
river is in flood the ferry is used in daylight hours only and provides access
across the river for cars and attached trailers providing the wheels are contained
within the safety chains of the ferry. Caravans are not allowed. Information
on the ferry service is available by telephone on (086) 48 5211.
The old barge which provided the crossing from 1949 to 1956, the 'Tom
Brennan' , is restored and on display at the Cooper Crossing.
Usually the 10km. crossing is dry.
NATTERANIE SANDHILLS: These sandhills average 9 metres in height and
stretch from the western side of the road to the Simpson Desert. The 'flood'
road rejoins the track just north of the normal crossing and these sandhills
were the most difficult and notorious part of the track in its early days.
MULKA HOMESTEAD: Just south of the new Mulka Homestead the ruins of
Mulka Store can be seen 1km. west of the track. It was established in 1883 by
Alexander Scobie.
OOROOWILANNIE RUINS: The ruins of the homestead are just north of
the Ooroowilannie Swamp.
MUNGERANNIE ROADHOUSE: (850km. from Adelaide)
The roadhouse is adjacent to the Mungerannie Homestead, 204km. north of Marree
and 313 south of Birdsville, on the Derwent Creek. It provides fuel, food, accommodation,
emergency repairs and camping and is the only service area along the track.
COWARIE & KALAMURINA HOMESTEADS TURN-OFF:
Leads to the homesteads (Cowarie 49km:Kalamurina 58km.) on the edge of the
Simpson Desert
MUNGERANNIE GAP:
The highest point on the road (1500m.) the track descends 3km. to Mungerannie
Gap
GYPSUM CLIFFS:
Just north of the Kirrawadinna Creek gypsum deposits can be seen just east
of the track.
MITTA MITTA BORE:
Hot water gushes to the surface from this bore and runs hundreds of kilometres
before cooling sufficently to use.
LAKE HOWITT: A dry saltpan west of the track and north of Mitta Mitta
Bore.
MT. GASON BORE: An artesian bore about 2 km. from the track to the
west.
SIMPSON DESERT TURNOFF:
11 km. south of Clifton Hills the turn-off to the K1 Line track over
the Simpson Desert, which connect with Rig Road. (See Map) Another route leads
across the north-west edge of Goyders Lagoon and on to Birdsville.
WARNING:
Do not attempt to use these routes unless equipped with 4WD vehicle, deatiled
maps and adequate supplies and preparation. A Desert Parks Permit is required
if entering the Conservation Park or Regional Reserve.
CLIFTON HILLS HOMESTEAD AND GOYDERS LAGOON:
The original route through Goyders Lagoon from Clifton Hills is now closed
and impassable. the longer 'outside track' which passes through 'gibber
country' (rocks) on the edge of Sturt's Stony Desert is now the main route.
BIRDSVILLE: (Adelaide 1161 Km.)
Located 12km. into Queensland, it originated around a store built in 1882
to cater to drovers using the stock route. Until Federation in 1901 it was a
customs town for interstate trade and is now little more than a pub and mission
hospital. Facilities include an hotel/motel, caravan park, general store, post
office agency, garage and a sealed runway airport for light planes. If you are
travelling in a large organised group it is wise to notify ahead of requirements
which must be brought in from other areas, including food.
Birdsville is famous for its Birdsville Race Meeting held in September
each year and attracting people from all over the country. Truckloads of refreshments
are brought in and the airstrip is gets plenty of use with planes from remote
areas parked everywhere. If you are attending thenraces make sure you have plenty
of provisions and good camping equipment.
INFORMATIONInformation in this section was compiled from personal experience
and from the Flinders Ranges & Outback of South Australia Regional Tourist Association
excellent Outback publication 'Flinders Ranges and Outback'. P.W.
Further enquiries to P.O. Box 41. Port Augusta, South Australia 5700. Ph:
08 8642 2469: Fax: 08 8642 0781.